SPECIAL THANKSGIVING ISSUE Dump the lumps and make the best - even a vegetarian version Besides roasting the turkey, nothing strikes fear into the hearts of holiday cooks more than turkey's must-have companion: gravy. There are a few basics: deciding how to thicken the gravy; how to incorporate the drippings, especially if you have a brined bird; and how to ramp up the flavor if you've roasted a breast instead of a whole turkey and don't have many drippings. Gravy is a sauce made from the natural juices of cooked meat and vegetables. If the granules aren't kept separate, lumps occur when flour is added to hot liquid and the granules in contact with the liquid swell, release starch and then clump together, trapping dry flour within. When flour is combined with a fat (butter, oil and/or turkey fat), the individual granules become coated, which keeps them separated. Oil and clarified butter are good to use for brown roux, which takes on a definite nuttiness and becomes peanut butter colored. The difference in temperatures helps temper the mixture and allows some time to evenly mix the roux and broth before the starch granules swell and burst. To save time and, more importantly, to reduce stress, try making a basic do-ahead gravy the day before Thanksgiving. Make roux with equal parts fat (oil, butter and/or turkey fat) and flour, by weight. Or whisk in more roux; you can also whisk in small pieces of beurre manie (equal parts flour and softened butter that have been kneaded together - it will be soft and dough-like). -- If making the gravy ahead, place plastic wrap directly on the surface to keep a skin from forming. 6 tablespoons butter or canola or vegetable oil (see Note) 1/2 cup all-purpose flourInstructions: 4 to 6 tablespoons brown roux or 4 tablespoons white roux (see recipe)4 cups vegetable broth 3/4 to 1 teaspoon Marmite dissolved in 2 to 3 tablespoons hot water, to taste (see Note)-- Kosher salt and black pepper to tasteInstructions: In a saucepan or skillet, whisk together 4 tablespoons roux and broth (use warm or hot roux plus cool to room temperature broth, or vice versa). Add the diluted Marmite and bring to a moderate simmer over medium-low to medium heat. Marmite can be found at well-stocked grocers including Andronico's, Berkeley Bowl, Draeger's and Pasta Shop, and at specialty stores such as Cost Plus World Market. For turkey flavor, try a broth made from Savory Choice turkey flavor liquid broth concentrate, instead of chicken broth, or use a half-half mixture. 4 to 6 tablespoons brown roux or 4 to 5 tablespoons white roux (see recipe)4 cups turkey or chicken broth 3/4 to 1 teaspoon Marmite dissolved in 2 tablespoons hot water (see Note)1 small sprig thyme (optional)-- Kosher salt and black pepper to tasteInstructions: Add Marmite and thyme, if using; bring to a moderate simmer over medium-low to medium heat. Marmite can be found at well-stocked grocers including Andronico's, Berkeley Bowl, Draeger's and Pasta Shop and at specialty stores such as Cost Plus World Market. Because the brined drippings are salty, do not add any salt until the gravy is at the desired consistency, then add drippings and/or salt to taste. 4 to 6 tablespoons brown roux (see recipe)4 cups turkey or chicken broth, plus more as needed 1/4 cup white wine (optional)-- Turkey drippings, to taste-- Black pepper, to taste-- Kosher salt, to taste (for unbrined bird) -- Add the liquid to the pan, and bring to a simmer while scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.
